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Aksai Myth or the Overseas Fiancée

Posted by Leila | in Culture, Oddities | on March 7th, 2007

This is Aizhana’s translation of the post written by Aiman, our contributor from Uralsk, about the myths that surround the foreingers in Aksai, Karachaganak Field in the West Kazakhstan.

Once, in winter, I was riding in a “marshrutka” (a minibus) from Aksay to Uralsk, the spot I got was perfect; it was beside the driver and beside the heater, I could stretch my legs, and the people in a car with me were pretty interesting. You have to admit that when you travel with interesting people, the time runs faster, and since I am a sociable person, I will never refuse a good conversation with people. The driver was a young man, Kazakh, of pleasant appearance, with warm smile. Playfully, with jokes and introductions, he collected payment from the passengers, and we were on our way.

A young girl sat between me and the driver, on the front seat, with light make-up and without a hat. Judging by her huge back-pack, I figured that she is a student. A conversation started because I automatically started to fasten myself with a seatbelt. In international company where I happen to work it’s an essential rule and not obeying it could cost you your job. Now it became a habit, besides, winter road isn’t very safe, especially when you sit in the front. The driver, observing my not very skillful way with the seatbelt laughed and asked: “You probably work at KPO (Karachaganak Petroleum Operating)?”. I nodded my head and he continued: “Well, yeah, everybody who works there uses a seat-belt, even in our mini-buses”.

Then, I had to listen to more of the driver’s stories of how hilarious and weird the foreigners are, and how they “bamboozle” the local personnel. I decided not to argue with him, because that’s not a very grateful doing, you can’t prove to everyone that the safety-belt in a car isn’t just for decoration. For about five more minutes he was telling us stories that he heard from people who work in KPO or SSS-Saipem (the Arab company, built the Gas Processing Complex). The driver, apparently, didn’t even know that in principle, these are two different organizations, in content and contingent. But the story isn’t about him; it’s about a girl, who was sitting next to me. Like thunder in clear sky she began to chatter with slender voice. She was quiet and pretended that she wasn’t interested in the driver’s talking for a long time, then, suddenly she laid down a sacramental phrase: “Foreigners are better than Kazakhs and Russians, they are polite and well mannered, they don’t know how to swear and don’t steal!” To say that I was taken aback isn’t even going to cover it. With astonishment, I was examining her face, and wondering where she came from. I wanted to answer, but she continued: “they even treat women better, than the Soviet men; I wish to marry a foreigner”.

I’ve worked in KPO for a long time, and I came across a lot of different people while working there. There are a lot of people who “assign” almost “godly” assets to the foreigners, but the kind of “miracle” like that girl in a mini-bus, I’ve seen for the first time. I tend to think that that kind of opinion exists because of the prolonged closeness of USSR. Many thought that “there” they live better because they are smarter or better than us. Many thought and assumed that alcoholism is a thing inherent only to us, and that stealing exists only here, because we are poorer.

I honestly tried to scatter some of that girl’s stereotypes, but I wasn’t successful. I hope that she learns from life, because, sometimes, only your own experience can open your eyes on some things. The driver tried to argue with her for quite some time, but somewhere by Burlin he got tired of it, and we rode on in silence which seemed abnormal. In a strange way, complete strangers who just happened to ride in the same car for a couple of hours, had time to diversify in opinions, to argue and get mad at each other, and now sat, frowning at each other, like little children who couldn’t equally divide the doughnuts.

That winter was a long time ago, but that girl is still in my head, like a picture. I still remember her words, and understand that such “naiveties” still occur in our life. I wish to scatter all our girls’ and women’s stereotypes and to warn them against wrong “steps”. My head can only think for myself, and I can only tell how I scattered some of the stereotypes for myself and my relatives.

First Myth: They are all rich there
It’s not a secret that the average level of profit in Europe is considerably higher than in our country, that’s why even a middle-status foreigner can allow himself some excesses when he is here, which he won’t be able to allow himself when he is in his country. Their salary depends a lot on prices, and with the increase of pension their prices also grow (just like here). I see how neatly and carefully my husband tries to plan our expenses, so we’ll have enough for everything, and won’t have to “make ends meet” at the end of the month. And I see how hard it can be for him when we go over our expenses limit or when we have some unexpected expenses.

But, let’s not talk about how they live there; let’s talk about how they are taken here. I’m going to tell you a true story about my experience, how my huge family met my future husband. It was like a masquerade, which we didn’t even know was going to happen. The adversity was divided into a couple of steps; first step was our Kazakh hospitality with all the out coming traditions.

My husband didn’t even suspect it was possible to eat, drink and not sleep in such amounts and so often. At first he really liked eating with his hands, say toasts and “cheers”, and just sit there, smile and practice his little knowledge of Russian language. But just imagine his astonishment when my mom set the table again at 2 o’clock in the morning and once again, they started to say toasts, drink and sing! He was sick a whole week afterwards, from indigestion and a huge amount of vodka.

About him being taken from house to house and meeting countless relatives is a totally different story, but the funny thing is, they decided to get him to pay “kalym”. For some reason, my relatives decided that I’m getting married to a millionaire and asked him to pay “kalym” with a helicopter, for grandpa, since he is old and a veteran of World War II and apparently it’s hard for him to take a bus. For you, it may be funny, but it wasn’t funny for my relatives, and especially for my grandpa who really hoped to “sell” his granddaughter for a helicopter. And then I understood that I have to save my future husband from the “claws” of my relatives, or else something not very good might happen. When my grandpa found out that he won’t get a helicopter, and that a maximum on what my relatives can count on is a bicycle, they were really upset, and didn’t even try to hide it.

Second Myth: They eat and drink something special
When my aunt found out that a foreigner is coming to visit, she started panicking, and the first question she asked was: “What does he like to eat”. I asked her not to worry about it, and just serve “normal” food. When we came, everybody looked at him like he was some sort of exotic bird or something. Everybody tried to touch and feel him, and what do you expect? It’s the first time they see a foreigner, live! They also with curiosity watched him eat foods that were on the table. First thing that my aunt asked me was: “Did you starve him?” Afterwards, she said that she was really worried that she might not meet her foreign son-in-law properly. One of the myths that foreigners eat something special was scattered, and I am very glad. Now, when we visit my relatives, they don’t worry about food that much.

Third myth: They know limits and don’t know what “halyava” (a free ride) is
Dear Ladies! Foreigners drink, I can guarantee you that! And they love to drink “na halyavu” (for free), love to drink a lot, and love vodka, because that vodka that they have in their stores has only a sad little hint on our vodka, because it is inferior to the taste qualities of our vodka.

The word “halyava” was made up by Russians, but it gets a special sense by foreigners. My foreign colleagues, hearing the word “halyava” smile and start drinking as much as they can, just like our men. When Kazakhs and foreigners get really drunk, they can understand each other without a translator. I’ve seen it happen a lot of times, but the funniest time was when my cousins got their brother-in-law really drunk with vodka and beer. When he came home, he could barely stand up, but he could clearly talk and asked me “kal kalai?” (“how are you” in Kazakh) and not waiting for my answer answered himself: “zhaksy!” (“good!”). He also learned a new Russian phrase: “Beer without vodka is wasted money!”

There are a lot of myths about foreigners and their lifestyles, and, sadly because of the inability to “see the world” our people look at them as something invincible. There are a lot of stereotypes; a lot of them started a long time ago, at a time of Soviet Union and you can’t do anything about them. Remembering that girl from the mini-bus, I think about how many young girls coming to Aksay hope to find their happiness with a foreigner, some do, some, find disappointment, and some, like me, understand that in the end it’s important to be happy.

There still a lot that differ a Kazakh person from a foreigner, but when I look at my husband, I see not a foreigner, but a person with whom I want to live my life and see him everyday. He is a father of our child and a loving person, and I hope he is happy with me, and doesn’t think of me like I’m someone different because I’m a foreigner. After all, the most important thing is, to find your happiness and not to search for some mythical foreigner, because a foreigner, no matter how foreign he is, is still a person who just wants to be loved.

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17 Responses to ' Aksai Myth or the Overseas Fiancée '

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  1. Ataman Rakin said,

    on March 9th, 2007 at 10:49 am

    I am actually quite surprised to learn that even 15 years after the Soviet crash, these myths about foreigners are still that strong and people can still be that naive and ignorant. Especially since the behavior of part of the expats in these countries showed not a particularly ‘enlightened’ part of Western society and culture.

    Another thing to keep in mind is, that the foreign men who marry women from the former USSR (Russian women in particular) are looked down upon in their own societies. It’s considered to be st. for losers, plus, sorry to say, Russian/ex-Soviet women do not have a good reputation in Europe.

  2. Leila said,

    on March 9th, 2007 at 11:30 am

    Ataman Rakin,

    I think you are generalising something that happens to some men, those who would order women through online dating services, are much older than a woman, and look for someone young and submissive, yes, they are losers. Sometimes the situation is a win-win: there are plenty of women who want to get married to a Westerner to have a better life abroad, yes, there are myths about that, not only in the ex-Soviet Union, but also in many other developing countries. These women can stand domestic violence, insult, then they get residence permit, or citizenship and get a divorce. Russian women do not have a good reputation because of trafficking and prostitution, mostly from Eastern Europe: Romania, Moldova, Ukraine (well, I guess for the “society” it’s all the same). And sorry to say, but you are a loser if you think the opinion of others matters, especially if there is a genuine love and equal relations, which happens as well, despite all the myths. I think Aiman’s story illustrates it well.

  3. Özgecan said,

    on March 9th, 2007 at 12:26 pm

    Thank you Leila, for translating this. It’s told from a different point of view I hadn’t seen before.

  4. Leila said,

    on March 9th, 2007 at 12:38 pm

    Thank you for your comment, Ozgecan, Aizhana translated it, I just posted!

  5. Ataman Rakin said,

    on March 12th, 2007 at 11:31 am

    “And sorry to say, but you are a loser if you think the opinion of others matters, especially if there is a genuine love and equal relations, which happens as well, despite all the myths. I think Aiman’s story illustrates it well.”

    Well, the thing is, that these Soviet women who marry inostrantsi better keep in mind, that they will always be looked down upon as ‘tretii sort’ in Europe, or even Arab countries. And they might (pretend to) not care about other’s opinions, but it certainly affects their social status, position and chances.

    The reason why I’m saying this is not because I think that way, but because they do not have to expect paradise abroad.

    “Russian women do not have a good reputation because of trafficking and prostitution, mostly from Eastern Europe:”

    Yes, that is the first cliché most people come up with. Another is that they are seen as parasites (”she did not came here to work or invest but only to live off social security and taxpayer’s money”).

    And sorry, but *part* of the ex-Soviets (women and men) who live in Europe have done a lot to get that sort of reputation. The sad thing is also, that a rotten fringe stains the bona fide couples (who, I agree, do exist).

    For these reasons, my wife, who’s Dungan, avoids contact with ex-Soviet people where we live. And prefers to call herself ‘Chinese’ or ‘Chinese Muslim’ rather than mentioning the ex-Soviet republic she’s from.

  6. Leila said,

    on March 12th, 2007 at 6:47 pm

    I understand, many people would know China rather than some former Soviet Central Asian republic. It is one’s own business how to call themselves, though I am sure there are many stereotypes towards Chinese too, as well as Americans, French, Roma minorities, etc, etc. … I just think it’s useless to try to cater to an average person’s knowledge about the world. Well, maybe I don’t know much about being discriminated on the basis of my nationality or ex-Soviet background. I know some successful Central Asian women in Europe, who do not have to hide their identities.

  7. Ataman Rakin said,

    on March 13th, 2007 at 11:03 pm

    Lola, in our case, it has not so much to do with China being better know than this or that ’stan. It’s just that the stereotypes about Chinese here are less degrading than those about Russians/Soviets.

  8. Bob said,

    on June 11th, 2007 at 5:12 pm

    This made good reading. I’m going to be spending some time out at the KPO site in the next year or so, working closely with a local team. I hope to be able to earn their respect and trust and to learn of their country and culture. It is always a privelege to be allowed to work in another country and it is a pity that it is true that too many ex-pats think they are the ones to be thanked. Yes, they may have skills but the true test of their skills and humanity is being able to pass those skills on and then come away. Instead, the tendency is to think “if I teach you, you will know as much as me and I can’t have that”. A great pity.
    I look forward to my time in the country.

  9. Aliya said,

    on August 2nd, 2007 at 11:56 am

    just a quick note: I agree with leila and Bob. Special thanks to Bob for what he says and recognises.

  10. Mysterious said,

    on January 15th, 2008 at 2:42 am

    Some information here is a way too general. I know that some people in Europe do not like some people from Russia or other Ex-Soviet countries, but who ever do not like people because they are from Ex-Soviet country is shallow and is not worth to pay attention at.
    Like somebody said that in Arab countries Eastern European women are treated badly, it is because of the way they dressed or act that does not go along with arabic cultures” conservative side. I think that people should respect culture where they live and try to understand this culture and adapt to it.

    In Aksai I know there are some shameless woman, who hunt after foreigners, who have kids and family back in their home country.
    That is a shame that this happens, I guess it is a desperation for these woman to get out from Aksai or lack of self-respect. I do not respect these particular woman, but I wish they have self-respect towards themselves and do something to live better on their own, instead of trying to steal somebody’s foreigner husband to improve their financial situation or whatever situation.

  11. Angela said,

    on May 9th, 2008 at 9:40 pm

    Personally I believe if men dont want nobody can steal them ! They coming to those places like Aksai to work less harder than in their home countries and be paid tripple. They drink and have fun with local girls cos nobody will go out with them in their home countires. No western girl of age 18-25 will go out with a fat ugly foreigner hoping that he will marry her! They shag those girls cos they allow them to do that and those old farts just dont want to lose their chance to fill that he still can get someone better than his wife who is probably twice older than the girl from Aksai bar.

  12. Allan said,

    on June 24th, 2008 at 6:07 am

    I have worked in may different cultures and countries and each has its own magic. i agree with some of what is said above but feel that there is a lot of stereotyping. there are good and bad in every culture western and eastern all of them, and i also disagree with Angela’s comments as she seems to be decribing an individual or couple of individuals she knows personally. I must admit what i do see in western culture (especially young people) is a deterioration of family and social values where in eastern countries those values are still there. Maybe i am old fasioned but i look at eastern women who still have a style and grace and a pride in how the look and behave and i look at what can be seen on the streets of some western cities especially when the bars close. I recently had the pleasure of visiting Kazakhstan and really liked the people and culture i have also lived and worked in other FSU countries and pride myself in getting past the “expat Bars” and getting to know the people and on the whole what i have found is a sense of family and cultural values the we in the west have lost about 30 years ago or more.

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